How to Properly Store Devices You’re Not Using

I cleared out a drawer last summer and found four old smartphones, two tablets, a laptop, and a small pile of accessories. Most had been there for between two and six years. I powered up each one to see what still worked. The results were a sobering education in why “I will just put it in a drawer” is not a neutral act for electronic devices.

One phone was completely dead, with a battery that had swollen so much the back cover was bulging. One tablet would not charge, having entered the deeply discharged state that lithium batteries sometimes refuse to recover from. The laptop powered on but the battery showed 0% capacity and could not hold a charge. Two phones worked but the screens had ghosting in the corners from prolonged disuse. Only one device was in genuinely useful condition.

The lesson: devices stored for long periods without care degrade. The lithium batteries inside them are the most vulnerable, but other components also suffer. With minimal preparation, you can keep stored devices in good condition for years, ready to use when you need them. Without that preparation, you may find expensive devices have quietly become e-waste.

Why batteries hate being stored

Lithium-ion batteries have two failure modes when stored:

The first is deep discharge. If you put a phone away at 30% charge and leave it for a year, the battery’s slow self-discharge plus the trickle current of internal components can drain it to zero. Some lithium batteries left at zero for extended periods enter a state called “deep discharge” from which they refuse to charge again. The phone becomes a brick.

The second is high storage charge. Batteries stored at 100% for long periods undergo chemical stress. The voltage at full charge is harder on the battery chemistry than the voltage at middle charge. A phone stored at 100% for a year loses significantly more capacity than the same phone stored at 50%.

The sweet spot for long-term storage is around 50% charge. The battery’s chemistry is happiest there, and the battery has plenty of buffer to slowly discharge over months without reaching dangerous levels.

Step one: charge to about 50%

Before storing any device long-term, charge it to about 50% (some sources recommend 40-60%; the precise number is not critical). For most devices, this means plugging in for an hour or so if starting near empty, or letting it discharge through use if starting full.

Avoid storing devices either fully charged or fully empty. Both extremes are harmful.

Step two: power down completely

A device left in sleep mode continues to consume small amounts of power. Over months, this drains the battery to dangerous levels.

Power devices off completely before storing. On a phone or tablet: hold the power button (or power + volume button on newer models) and use the slide-to-power-off option. On a laptop: shut down through the Start menu (Windows) or Apple menu (Mac); do not just close the lid.

For consoles, unplug from mains power; some consoles continue to consume substantial power even when “off” via the controller.

Step three: remove the case (optional)

If a phone or tablet has a tight-fitting case, consider removing it before storage. Cases trap moisture against the device body in humid environments and can cause condensation issues over long periods. The device is also slightly easier to inspect periodically without a case.

This is optional but helpful in damp climates.

Step four: store in the right place

The environmental needs of stored electronics:

• Cool but not cold (15-25 degrees Celsius is ideal; do not freeze devices)
• Dry, with low humidity (a dehumidifier in the storage area is helpful in damp climates)
• Out of direct sunlight
• Away from sources of heat (radiators, hot water pipes)
• In something dust-free (a closed drawer, a box, an old camera bag)
• Padded to prevent damage from movement or pressure

A bedside table drawer, a closet shelf, or a dedicated storage box in a temperature-controlled room are all reasonable. A loft (often very hot in summer and freezing in winter) is a bad choice. A garage (often damp and temperature-variable) is also poor.

Step five: schedule periodic check-ins

Set a calendar reminder for every six months to check on stored devices. The check is brief:

1. Power the device on
2. Check the battery percentage
3. If below 30%, charge back up to around 50%
4. If above 70%, discharge slightly through use (or just leave on for a while)
5. Visually inspect for any signs of swelling, damage, or condensation
6. Power down and return to storage

This check takes ten minutes for a half-dozen devices. It is the single most important step in preserving long-term stored electronics.

The data backup question

Before storing a device long-term, back up everything you might want from it. Phones may not boot in five years, even with good storage; the photos and messages stored on them should be elsewhere by then.

For phones: ensure iCloud or Google backups are current before storage.
For laptops: copy important files to a cloud service or another drive.
For tablets: same as phones.

Once data is backed up, you can also factory reset the device before storage if you want; a clean state is sometimes preferable for long-term hibernation, and removes any personal data from the device if it is ever lost.

What about devices being passed on

If you intend to give a stored device to a family member, sell it, or donate it later, factory reset before storage is the right approach. The device sits clean and ready to be set up by a new owner. The new owner gets a fresh experience rather than inheriting your accumulated digital life.

For sensitive devices (work phones, devices with banking apps), factory reset is essential. Even with screen lock enabled, a determined person can sometimes access stored data on a phone they have physical possession of. Reset removes this risk entirely.

When stored devices come back to life

A well-stored device that has been checked periodically will boot normally when you need it. Charging may take longer than expected the first time (the battery management chip may need to recalibrate). The software will be out of date and will want extensive updates before being current; allow time and bandwidth for this.

If the device does not boot, the battery is the most likely cause. Try charging for at least an hour before assuming the device is dead; sometimes a deeply discharged battery needs a long slow trickle before the device can recognise it.

For more on the broader habits of device care, see our common device mistakes piece. For active device care, our phone maintenance routine covers what to do for devices in regular use.

When to let go

Some devices in storage simply are not going to be useful again. A six-year-old budget tablet, even in perfect condition, probably will not run modern apps. A laptop with a dead motherboard, no matter how well-stored, is not coming back.

Be honest about what you are storing. If the realistic likelihood of using it again is low, recycle responsibly. Local councils accept small electronics. Manufacturers often have take-back programmes. Many old devices contain materials (lithium, rare earths) that should not end up in landfill but can be recovered through proper recycling.

For a related angle, our piece on Why Your Phone Is Slow (and What Actually Helps) covers a closely connected problem.

For a related angle, our piece on How to Fix a Charging Port That Won’t Hold a Cable covers a closely connected problem.